I still want to play on the same server however, so I tried changing my IP - didn't work, I tried re-installing MTA - didn't work, I tried re-installing with my hardware serials spoofed using an app called PB Downforce 0.2 - didn't work yet. Here's what happened, I play MTA-SA(Multiplayer San Andreas Game) and got banned of an online server. Since all that MTA when banning is to store the hardware serial/IP/username - I tried changing all but so far it hasn't work. Or is it that MTA stores some other info too to identify the banned person? How to change my mta serial numbers. And I suspect that the hardware-spoof tool that I'm using maybe it fault for if it is indeed working as it should(and properly), then I should be able to bypass the ban on the server, no?

Age: Less than 1 year Just bought this fridge new at Menards in april of this year. We were on a budget and I realize we get what we pay for, but why is it making a constant popping noise while the compressor is running? Its not during the defrost cycle though. It sometimes is very loud and constant, and sometimes very quiet and sometimes I don't hear the popping at all. It cools just fine, but the popping noise is driving me nuts sometimes. Is there a fix? Does anyone have or had the same problem that they have a solution for??

I have a service tech coming out Monday, but I have a feeling they will say its normal noise as the customer service rep told me over the phone, BUT THERE IS NO WAY THIS IS NORMAL NOISE> I understand during defrost cycle, but not while its running, HELP Fridgidaire FFTR2126LW7 S# 4A23404573. Open the freezer door and see if the sound is louder. Pull the machine away from the wall and remove the cover over the machine compartment. Hold the filter/drier in your hand and see if you can fee the popping in the refrigerant line. I think what you're hearing is the refrigerant expanding in the accumulator by the evaporator or in the evaporator itself. I don't know why some machines will make that sound and others don't (I'm not sure the manufacturer knows either). I've noticed that some manufactures have added a 'muffler' in line with the filter/drier (high side) and some have added two mufflers, one on the low side.

Open the freezer door and see if the sound is louder. Pull the machine away from the wall and remove the cover over the machine compartment. Hold the filter/drier in your hand and see if you can fee the popping in the refrigerant line. I think what you're hearing is the refrigerant expanding in the accumulator by the evaporator or in the evaporator itself. I don't know why some machines will make that sound and others don't (I'm not sure the manufacturer knows either).

I've noticed that some manufactures have added a 'muffler' in line with the filter/drier (high side) and some have added two mufflers, one on the low side. Its definitely coming from the freezer compartment and get louder when i open the door. I thought it had something to do with the refrigerant, i have heard of it making that mpise while boiling i the lines other something like that. I guess ill just wait and see what the service tech comes up with.

• 139 Answers SOURCE: You have a hotpoint mistral f/f i take it in silver. Check to see if the fan is running at the bottom on the back of the fridge its next to the compressor behind the panel. If the compressor is running and the fan is not then your fault is the fan. IF the fan is running then its the sensors.

A clicking/tic tock noise can be heard when the defrost timer switches on and off. This is caused by high water pressure from the house going into the refrigerator. For unusual noises on older refrigerators: Refrigerator Unusual Noises.

These are located in the freezer section, pull out the draws and remove the panel behind it. You will c threes plugs at the top ledt hand side.

The yellow one is for the fridge the green one for the freezer. Replace both if your freezer is not working. Also just below the freezer door there is a panel remove the panel and use a vaccumm to clean the fluff that has built up on the coils. Hope this helps if you need anymore help dont hesitate to ask.

By the way the sensors are called evap thermistors. Posted on Jan 11, 2008. • 54 Answers SOURCE: Remove the light shield and there should be screws under it. Remove the air tower in the back, it snaps in and there is 2 screws behind that as well to remove the damper housing that sits behind the light. Also not sure what your model is but some models have 2 air ducts that run up each side, they come out after the light shield is removed by sliding foward and then pulling down. After the screws are removed in the upper plate the light assy will snap out and there is 2 quick disconnects on the wires.

Posted on Jul 16, 2008.